Friday, May 23, 2008

Ulu Pandan Heritage Trail (9) – The Lost Railway Line: Part 1 (by Peter Chan)

In the previous article, Chun See told you about the disused railway line across the Sungei Ulu Pandan. This line was actually part of what was called the Bukit Timah Siding. As the name implies, it was actually an extension of the main Malayan Railway Line which went from Tanjong Pagar to Peninsula Malaya. It was connected to the main railway line near the Bukit Timah Station. After crossing S. Ulu Pandan, it continued all the way to Jurong. Hence it was called the Jurong Line.

According to the 1960 Malayan Railway Berhad Annual Report, the Jurong Line was built by and the project funding came from the company itself and not the Singapore Government. The only reason for the existence of the Jurong Line was purely economics. When Singapore was a part of Malaysia, it was envisaged that Singapore was to be the heavy industrial hub of Malaysia through the Jurong Industrial Estate. At the same time, a small number of Malaysian companies producing essential commodities like sugar were to be relocated to Singapore. In order to obtain the raw materials for the Jurong heavy industries; the steel was required by the Jurong Shipyard from Prai, and not to clog up the Woodlands and Bukit Timah roads a railway track that ran-off the main Malayan Railway line was built. Historically much of Peninsular Malaya’s (and the future Malaysia) natural commodities such as rubber and tin were routed through the port of Singapore at Tanjong Pagar. So creating an extension from the main railway line was not all that difficult. Is this a surprise? Not really because when I worked for a large US MNC in the mid-1980s, I found that many of Malaysia's IT requirements from Europe and the US were re-exported from Singapore.

Today, I will describe for you the section near Clementi. Next time, I will describe the Western section.


Picture 1: Bukit Timah Siding

I used to travel the stretch of Clementi Road and Bukit Timah Road very often. Around 1960 or 1961, I saw huge excavators digging at the spot where Lorong Gaung used to be. The space next to Lorong Gaung finally became a deep valley which is now the tunnel under Clementi Road.


After Singapore separated from Malaysia, I found military trucks using a narrow dirt track (passable to only one vehicle at a time) running above the valley. The dirt track was Lorong Gaung which connected the Old Maju Camp with Clementi Road. Maju Camp was a People’s Defense Force Camp which trained volunteers for the army in the days before National Service was introduced in 1967. It was scary to see the 3-tonners getting stuck halfway up the muddy steep dirt-track and men pushing the vehicle forward. When the vehicle finally could get started, you could see the rising black exhaust smoke.


Picture 2: Map of Clementi Road area from 1981 street directory showing location of Lorong Gaung off Clementi Road. Notice that there was an Old Clementi Road at the lower part of the map. Notice also a Singapore Boys' Home and a Ngee Ann Technical College further up.
This is a recent photo of the railway bridge over Sunset Way.


Picture 3: PDF soldiers coming out of Maju Camp to main Clementi Road. This place is directly opposite the future Corona Florist nursery.


Today there are some small evidences that the valley and dirt track did exist.

Picture 4: Old entrance to Maju Camp marked by road block pillars.

At the same time, I saw the building of the railway bridge across the S. Ulu Pandan. There was a small dirt track to the left of and before the Sunset Way railway bridge. This dirt track lead to a British Army Camp called Colombo Camp. I used to see British military tanks doing their maneuvers in the area across the S. Ulu Pandan.

Photo 5: Down in the valley, the old railway track is still visible to the eye

How come I knew so much? Well we had our family outings to Clementi Park when it was first offered for sale by City Developments Ltd in the early 1960s. My 98 year old grand-uncle, who still lives at Sunset Drive, briefed the rest of the family members about his new bungalow. As for me, I was not interested in those adult conversations and was more tempted to watch the railway bridge under construction.

Coincidentally the S. Ulu Pandan railway bridge has a uncanny resemblance to a bridge in the movie, “Bridge On The River Kwai”, especially during sunset and when there are no HDB estates around it. Close your eyes, you can hear “Colonel Bogey” whistled by the POWs.
Recommended Read: Icemoon's follow-up to this article; Old tracks, New Trail: The bridge over the River U. Pandan.

40 comments:

passerby said...

Thank you so much as usual for the interesting posts! I've always been curious about this railway track...

By the way, I don't want to sound demanding, but is it possible to upload an image showing the lower bit of Old Clementi Road? The oldest street directory I have ever seen was from 1991, which didn't have it so I'm very curious about the old path of Clementi Road. I would really, really appreciate an image if possible...

I've noticed how there are overgrown ex-roads branching off Clementi Road, one mentioned here and another one or two that go into the forest. One is the former Lorong Lidi, I think. It's more overgrown than the abandoned Lorong Panchar off 6th Avenue which still had a dilapidated road sign a few years ago...

Also totally unrelated to the bridge, there's a small hill just overlooking Clementi Crescent, right next to the Corona Florist nursery - I walked up there once and there were remnants of a concrete paving and little bits of rubble... Someone told me there used to be a temple there.
Recently a bulldozer or something went up there and cleared a bit of the ground, I think maybe the florist is expanding to that area too.

Lam Chun See said...

Hi. I have just added another map of the lower section of Clementi Road. But sorry can't seem to get them to be aligned properly. And the line spacing also gone haywire.

peter said...

The hill which is now a flat ground next to Corona Florist was a hill and before the present Clementi Crescent Road. I am not sure whether the temple was on Corona Florist present site or the flat ground behind it. But I am sure there was a Chinese temple at one time from my memory. It has a kind of furnace (round type - small at the top but fat at the base - with 3 sections designed like those sections of a bamboo plant. The furnace was painted red colour and was used to burn those "paper money". Much land was taken from the slope and the dirt track leading into Corona Florist to make way for the Clementi Road (towards Ulu Pandan Road).

passerby said...

Thank you very much for the replies and the extra picture! It's absolutely OK if they don't meet up. I see, Old Clementi Road seems to have passed through where those HDB flats are now.

And so there was a temple in that area after all... Thank you for the information!

Lam Chun See said...

I just added another photo of the railway bridge that runs over Sunset Way. The railway track seems to be missing.

juronghistory said...

Hi webmaster and all,This website is fantastic, wish to add a bit of Jurong railway history here.

from old Straits times.........
---------------------------------
1965-11-10(Wed) The Straits Times Page 9
Jurong Industrial estate rail link to open soon

KUALA LUMPUR Tues – The 15 mile extension of the railway line from Bukit Timah to the Jurong industrial estate will be open to traffic in the next few days. It was announced here today.
A statement from the Malayan Railway Administration said that at least 400,000 tons of traffic was expected on this new line annually bringing in $3 to $4 million revenue.
The project was launched at the request of Singapore’s Economic Development Board which provided the Malayan Railway with a loan of nearly $6 million to carry out the job.

Five tunnels
This loan will be repaid by the Malayan Railway on the basis of the tonnage moved over the Jurong extension.
Work on the extension began in 1963. About a million cubic yards of earth was moved.
The Economic Development Board also built five tunnels, eight bridges and 22 culverts before handing over the job of laying the track to the Malayan Railway.
The Malayan Railway will initially operate a cement clinker train from Perak to Jurong.
Arrangement are also in hand to run trains conveying iron ore and timber from the East Coast of Malaya to Jurong.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1965-11-12 (Fri) The Straits Times Page 4
JURONG RAILWAY MAKES FIRST PUBLIC RUN
Another milestone in Singapore’s industralisation programme was passed today.
The new railway to serve the Jurong industrial complex made its first public run from Bukit Timah station, carrying a party of Press representatives and officials of the railway and Economic Development Board.
The $5.5 million rail project providing a total of 12 miles of new tracks to various parts of the Jurong Industrial Estate is almost fully completed.
The branch lines , which are still under construction are due to be completed by January when the whole Jurong system will become fully operative.
Today’s preliminary run, which was made at a leisurely pace with a number of stops, was along the nine-mile mainline from Bukit Timah to the site of the Mobil refinery, where the party was greeted by Mr. John R. Kendall, general manager of the refinery and conducted to the company’s office for light refreshments.

3 branch lines

The main line to the refinery is capable of extension to zones earmarked for futher development westwards in Jurong.
Three branch lines, yet to be completed form part of the system. One leads to the heavy industries area, another to the wharf area and the third to the National Iron and Steel Mills.
The main line run today was via Clementi Road and Ulu Pandan and entering the Jurong area provided a simulating view of industrial development-completed and under construction stretching over a vast area on both sides of the track.
The project called for the building of 22 different culverts of various sizes, eight steel bridges and three tunnels.
A marshalling yard, initially consisting of six tracks has been built and provision has been made for further possible extensions.
A godown incorporating a goods shed and a custom office, now being built will be ready by early January.
The new Jurong railway will be open to traffic from Monday, It is expected that the volume of rail transportation from the industrial estate will be 2,000,000 to 3,000,000 tons a year, and train frequency is expected to be seven to ten trains a day.

1965-11-12(Fri) The Straits Times Page10

New Railway

Five years ago the notion that trains might one day run to Jurong, then one of Singapore’s most outlandish spots seemed improbable. True, there was talk of development and some bulldozers were at work – but a railway? Now it has come true. Yesterday the first of what will be many trains steamed ceremoniously along the brand new lines from Bukit Timah to Jurong to inaugurate the latest achievement. It was a little late, the railway having been scheduled for completion in June, but the delay is insignificant.
As late as mid-1962 surveyors were still fixing the best route and another six months were needed to cleared squatters. Later the weather proved unhelpful, rain creating quagmires where today 12 miles of track run through five tunnels and across eight bridges and numerous culverts.
Some branch lines to industrial sites have yet to be completed but the system will be “fully operative” by January-about the time the first 3,000 feet of Jurong’s wharves will be ready for its first freighters. The industrial estate will almost simultaneously have gained links with Malaya and the overseas world. Estimates of sea traffic have not been published but the rail figures are fairly firm. The Malayan Railway (which built the line with a $5.5 million loan from the Singapore Economic Development Board) plans to run from seven to ten trains a day into Jurong and expects the line to handle between two and three million tons of freight a year. A cement clinker train service from Perak is about to begin and preparation are being made from regular shipments of iron ore and timber. The Railway anticipates an annual revenue of $2 or $3 million, a formidable return on the investment.
There is only one fly in this apparently excellent ointment. Most of these encouraging estimates were arrived at before Singapore’s separation from Malaysia clouded industrial prospects in both countries. The development of Jurong to the grand goals proposed for it will depended upon various factors, but the size of the market in which it can sell its products is one of the most important. At present it is doubtful whether the Malayan peninsula (now brought so close to Jurong ) is part of the market or not, If the new railway is to serve its full role, the geographical link it has created will need backing by a larger market.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1965-11-16(Tue) The Straits Times Page 5

NEW JURONG RAILWAY CARRIES ITS FIRST LOADS

SINGAPORE, Mon – The new Jurong Railway, which is now directly linked with Malaya, was opened to traffic today.
A train made two runs – one in the morning and the other in the afternoon,
On the first run, it carried 13 loads of clinker for the Pan-Malaysia Cement Works Ltd from the Singapore marshalling yard to the firm’s factory via Bukit Timah.
On the other, it carried another 18 wagons of clinker – which had arrived at Johore Bahru from Ipoh – from Bukit Timah to the firm’s Jurong factory.
The Railway Adminstration which is in charge of the traffic said : “We hope later on to carry logs and other raw material from the Federation to Jurong.”
The new railway was built to serve the Jurong industrial complex and last Thursday a cargo train made a trial run over the 12 – mile track between Bukit Timah and Jurong Wharf.
The new track was built with a loan of nearly $6 million from the Economic Development Board.
Engineers from the Board also built tunnels, culverts and bridges before handing the job of laying tracks to the Malayan Railway authorities.


-------------------------------

peter said...

Jurong Historian,

Good work that you kept track of the newspaper clippings. I like to ask you a question. I remembered that the Jurong Line was to serve a fishing company at Port Road. This was a JV between Russian and Singapore. Do you remember the name of the company?

In 1964, our primary school had a school outing to the Jurong Shipyard. Before entering Pulau Samulun via a bridge, there was an oil storage tank site. Reading your article, I now recollect that it was Mobil (originally I was confused between CALTEX or ESSO). later in the 1970s it became the Mobil Oil Refinery.

There was to be one more sub-line to the S. Pandan River area to carry logs to the plywood factories there. I think this idea was finally scrapped.

peter said...

Chun See
If you check the 1964 Street Directory, you find the present Clementi Road never existed in early 1960s, only Old Clementi Road. In fact the small road to the left of the Sunset Way railway bridge (not Clementi Street 14) was a road that ran as a loop and came out of the present-day Clementi Road Avenue West.

Lam Chun See said...

Thanks Jurong Historian for the bit of history. It is timely for you to put out this information here becos in the next few days we intend to roll out part 2 of this write-up on the Jurong Line.

Norman said...

When and why was the Jurong Line closed?

peter said...

Norman,
Good question. There was plenty of publicity when it was launched but almost dead silence when it was scaled down and finally closed.

I think the Jurong Line ran for a few years. In 1974 when I was in the Pasir Laba area, the track was still visible from the Jurong Ice Skating Rink but no locomotives were in sight.

The Class 20 locomotive were sent back to Malaysia around 1972 and the disel shutters that pulled the wagons and tankers were moth-balled at Tg Pagar Railway yard from 1970 until the Singapore Govt acquired the land from KTM Bhd to build the Keppel Flyover/Exit 2B. I think the Flyover was built around 1984 or 1988.

Imee said...

Hello I'm glad to have chanced upon this post. May I ask how to get to the railway part of this whole trail? Thanks so much.

prasannakrishnan said...

Hi
I grew up in johore baru. all our relatives lived in singapore except for my maternal grandparents. my dad was with the british army in singapore, kranji is a name that i remember, together with alexandria and pasir panjang?

in those long ago days when people were not so territorial, when we were glad to have a place to call home and to live side by side in peace, we would travel often to singapore without the hassle of passports and embarkation forms.

i remember that bukit timah road was the first dual carriage road i had ever seen. we would all hold our noses when we passed the yeo hiap seng kichap factory and then the bukit timah overhead railway bridge.

often i wondered what metal box was all albout. it looked so locked up and deserted. my dictionary did not unravel its mysteries.

then we used to pass a hindu temple and there were two statues of horses. i used to think that they were not so artistic but then we were not allowed to comment on any places of worship in a negative manner.

the rochor canal road express bus or the queenstreet green bus. with what excitement we would board in johor baru to visit our relatives and with what heavy eyes and tired feet we disembarked in jb at the end of the day.

we had no telephones. they were our relatives and we did not have to tell them that we were visiting. we took a tin of assorted biscuits or home made traditional cakes as offering. there would be much excitement when we met and the women folk would adjourn to the kitchen to cook up a meal. the men would sit in the living room and talk, we children would play and make much noise, and was often chided by our parents for unruly behaviour. we could continue to play because the unwritten law was that we would not be subjected to corporal punishment in a relative's house.

after lunch there would be more talking and then tea. if we were going to visit more than one relative, then we would have tea with the second set.

after much eating and drinking we would head for home after having invited them to our home. all of us children too would issue invitations and genuinely wanted them to just drop in and give us a fun day.

i also had an uncle and aunt who lived in chinatown. the only indian family there. my two cousins were such fun. they lived on the third floor. the gound floor was a hair dressing salon and the first floor housed some chinese families. the third floor was were we spent some very happy days. years later when i studied in the university in singapore i found out that that was a red light area! but believe me the people were really nice.

curly hair, bright red lipstick, lana lobell frocks, high-heel shoes
loud high pitched voices, porcelain smooth skin, skirts swishing as they walked, how i longed to grow up and wear gowns like them and to be all the time happy like them!

when my memories float back to those days, i am filled with the sounds, smells and sights of chinese of a bygone era. they did not speak like us, they did not look like us but we were friends. we spoke hardly any malay and neither did they. so how did we communicate? when there's sincerity in the heart and a healthy respect for each other, words become redundant.

i find myself looking for my long lost chinese comrades. occasionally i get a fleeting glance when a waft of some incense comes floating my way, or the i see the shuffling gait of an old man in slippers, shorts and singlet pulled up to his chest.

on saturdays when we had extra cash we would sometimes be taken by our parents when they went to woodlands to look for bargains to clothe and feed all six of us children. i went to university wearing clothes from the morning or night market of woodlands and what joy those clothes brought to me. i used to dream then of being able to afford john littles or robinsons but nothing till today can beat the joy of woodlands in the late 50s.

my aunt still lives in the same house that she bought in the mid
50s. mother earth is the same what is different is what we have done on earth. and what we have done on earth has in turn changed us into people we cannot recognize. we have become strangers to the children we were.

i wish i could sit down and create in words, feelings thoughts sounds smells and sights that my children or children' children will be able to see, hear and smell.

you are doing a wonderful job. dont stop.

prasanna

peter said...

Prasanna,

Whay you just said was what I experience as a child in the early 1960s until the last time in 1972 just before we were drafted into the National Service. My Indian buddy and I hitch-hiked (on a lorry) from the JB Customs building at the causeway all the way to KL to meet another Malaysian Indian friend. We lived in his house in Jalan Scotts near Sentul. We did the same visiting Pulau Penang and lived at a Malay friend's house behind Penang Free School. We each had S$20 in our pockets.

The Hindu temple with 2 horses at Woodlands I can remember but it's gone.

Will you let Chun See know your email addrr? I like to contact you.

Rgds
Peter

yg said...

peter, the temple in woodlands - the sri araskesari sivan temple - has been relocated to sungei kadut avenue.

Lam Chun See said...

Thank you Prasannakrishnan for sharing your memories.

Oh yes, I too remember that stretch of Woodlands Road. I remember seeing cows grazing on the hillside around that area. I had wanted to blog about that, but could not dig up enough memories.

For us it was the other way around, going up north to visit relatives in JB. We had a great time fishing and swimming in Lido Beach. My uncle stayed at the hospital quarters near the Johor Straits.

Talking about how we kids befriended kids of other races, reminds me of the Indian boy who came to our kampong to sell kuehs. We became friends and exchanged stamps regularly, You can read about it here and here.

You said "please do not stop". I assure, I won't be stopping soon, if I can help it. In fact, I am having more stories becos some readers have contributed their stories to share with you.

stanley said...

Regarding the Jurong line mention earlier.
The line exists until the early 1990s. I saw a class 24 with a brake van at Jurong Station while taking photos of the line from Bukit Timah station to Jurong station.

Sadly it was not much used due the separation of both SG & MY which both government have the different ways of planning.

Lam:
Part of the track especially on the bridge were lifted last these few years, but most of the tracks are still intact.
Recently there were contractors doing some earth works along the line, i don't know who they are working for. now most of the remaining tracks & sleepers are exposed.

By the way i am a railway fan & are interested in the railway/disused history of Singapore & Malayan.

Icemoon said...

Hello Stanley, good to see a railway fan here.

By the way, where exactly is Jurong Station? I can't seem to find it in the old street directory.

Also, I have a few questions while exploring the line around Faber area. Maybe you'd be kind enough to help answer them, in my blog article.

stanley said...

Jurong station is not an official station, it's just a stopping point along the line with few sidings for the KTM staffs.

It is actually located behind the old Jurong bus interchange if you remember.... (That was before Boon Lay opens it's current interchange)

Now the land filled with containers.

Icemoon said...

Filled with containers?! Oh no, I want to take second shot of the station sign one leh.

stanley said...

No, what i mean is that the original land of Jurong bus interchange is now filled with containers.

Anyway the station hut is already gone, only the station signboard is left standing alone.

Lam Chun See said...

Icemoon. For your benefit, I have just added a map showing the location of the Jurong SBS Depot to artical no, 10 of the Ulu Pandan Series.

Icemoon said...

Thanks Stanley for the clarification and Chun See for the map.

Hmm, that old bus interchange looks like the terminus station for Bus 30.

kai said...

The railway is an interesting place, like an urban void. Even the old crossing arms and railway signs are still there at some places.

Does anyone know which year was train services stopped?

stanley said...

It stops around 1995. All wagons were begin pulled out to the main line & brought back to Malaysia before the turnout were taken out.

In fact there are somemore old lines in Singapore, but you can only trace them from the map. Like the Tank Rd, military line, brickwork...etc. All of them are more then 40 years old & are long gone.. :(

peter said...

There are a few more remnants of the old railway lines except it requires a sharp eye to look for them. Here are some of them

1. Inside Prima Flour Mill at Teluk Blangah Road

2. Inside the public car park at Mackenzie Road (but this one is the old tramline)

3. Portsdown Road at the rear entrance of Tanglin Trust School (military line)

4. Bukit Chermin Road (one of the holes after the road inside Keppel Golf Club. Covered by the Mermuda grass

stanley said...

1. Is the track beside the Prima Flour Mill/St. James along the dock or a siding into the mill ?

3. I have been to Portsdown Road, the sleepers are still there.
I have posted the photos in the 'ktmrailwayfan.com' few years ago. The rest are lost under the new development of 1 north. Maybe the part near the godown (AYE) is still visiable.

4. Hmmm, will try to check out Bukit Chermin Road one of these days...

Icemoon said...

Stanely, the website is revamped right? And the forum contains trainspotting information. I can't find any of those photos you mentioned.

peter said...

Stanley,
1. The track is inside the mill, the public car park in front of the entrance.

2. Bukit Chermin where it narrows after the PSA Childcare Center. Left side = Reflections@Keppel Bay, right side is the gold course. Apparently they did not remove the track - just behind the flower-bed and the small gate and on the course itself from one senior Keppel committee member. The btrack on the road was taken out.

3. There is one narrow gauge track after Tanglin Halt Station, around 5SIR hill slope, going under North Buona Vista Road towards the Singapore Poly. Spore Poly was a former British Army base.

stanley said...

1. Oh, good!! Hmm... then i will have to find 1 day to have my dinner in Prima in order to take a closer look. Always thought that the track along the dock is straight and goes to the godown (now vivo).

2. That is good infor for me... Reflections is currently my project, i just went to site last month, didn't noticed that.
Next time will take note of it.

Before the construction of viaduct, i found a small railway (2m wide)across the river (opposite ITE/PSA junction). Now the whole area was level down for the CCL construction..

3. Interesting.. The narrow gauge track after Tanglin Halt Station towards north or south direction ?
I hv seem a map around that area (not portsdown rd), but can't figure out what line it was.

Icemoon:
You have to register to that railway web site in order to see all the member's photo.

stanley said...

Anyway will be taking the 9pm SM later to KL until sunday.
Will make a trip down to the old railway station if time allows.

peter said...

Stanley,
The Pasir Panjang track you mentioned across the canal between Keppel Clubhouse and an empty piece of land was removed to make way for the BP oil storage tanks. The BP oil storage tanks were built in 1960/61, so the track was dismantled before that year. The MRT has a vehicle yard or a storage space for steel bars there now.

The track to the "station" was meant to carry equipment and men to support the Labrador Gun Battery; protecting the narrow channel of waters between Pulau Blakang Mati and Labrador Park, after Tg Pagar Station was built. It was never meant for the Tg Berlayar military base (later occupied by SAF, now National Parks). That base was built after 1959.

Jinghui said...

Hi Mr Lam

Growing up around the area in the mid 80s, I knew about this railway bridge since my primary school was very nearby the railway bridge.

However, I wouldn't know as much history even though I lead a photography outing trip there until I read about your great insightful blog post on its rich history.

Thanks for sharing with the younger generation on the history, development and changes in Singapore!

JH
http://www.photojournalist-tgh.tv

Lam Chun See said...

Hi Jinghui. On behalf Peter and all my fellow bloggers at GMY, I thank you for your kind comments.

Anonymous said...

Hi, found your site. I actually walked along the old clementi road today! I was exploring the old Jurong railway and saw the 6 poles. There were tar road and I follow inside. However, I turned back when the vegetation got to thick to bashed through....interesting....

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LOAN APPLICATION INFORMATION FORM
First name......
Middle name.....
2) Gender:.........
3) Loan Amount Needed:.........
4) Loan Duration:.........
5) Country:.........
6) Home Address:.........
7) Mobile Number:.........
8) Email address..........
9) Monthly Income:.....................
10) Occupation:...........................
11)Which site did you here about us.....................
Thanks and Best Regards.
Derek Email osmanloanserves@gmail.com