When holiday-makers
are asked to rate their Bangkok experiences, it’s somewhere between “excellent”
and “exceptional”, depending on what brought them to Bangkok in the first
place. Though there are many different
ways to look at a Bangkok trip, most of us associate Bangkok with eating,
shopping, clubbing and “sextertainment”.
Photo 1: Visitors to
Bangkok doing the usual way. If you are
thinking of just MBK/Chatuchak Market, there are better ones in Bangkok.
When you tell others
that it is a Bangkok historical and
heritage trip, it brings out blank looks.
Even worse when one speaks about doing a Bangkok walking tour, it
usually conjures images of temples, parks & gardens, shrines, palaces,
traditional crafts, floating markets, museums, Chinatown and cultural shows led
by tour guides who have the authority and insights on the subject(s). But walking
is not something one can associate with travelling Singaporeans because their
preference have been always longing for air-conditioned buses and taxis with
occasional stops at places of interest.
By
doing it that way, there are many things one can miss. Let me use the F1 street circuit as an
introduction to the history/heritage of Bangkok. Though I have walked these parts several
times over many years, I never had to stitch the parts together like what I am
about to illustrate. Instead of using
modern-day photographs, I will revert to those archaic 1940s black-white to
give the “authentic look”.
Photo 2: Proposed F1
Grand Prix street circuit in Bangkok.
The beige line indicates the proposed street circuit.
Recently Bangkok came
into the news that she will host the night F1 Grand Prix in 2015. The race will be on the Bangkok streets, the
second in Asia after Singapore but what makes the Bangkok street race a novelty
is the skyline. Singapore’s street
circuit has the backdrop of modern CBD office skyscrapers and few historical
landmarks in the Civic District. Contrast
this to Bangkok which offers historical landmarks almost everywhere and at
every corner.
Photo 3: On Ratchadamnoen
Road. Is that Sebastian Vettel or Mark
Webber in a Team RED BULL? RED BULL
thrills the Bangkok crowd with sudden hard braking and thick bellowing smoke from
burning tyres.
The street circuit
would take up the following roads: Ratchadamnoen Klang Road – Ratchadamnoen Nai
Road – Thawang Road – Maharat Road – Na Phralan Road – Rachini Road – Chaofa
Road and back into Ratchadamnoen Road.
On this street
circuit, there are two clear definitive timelines of history and heritage in
architectural designs; the first built around the time when the monarchy system
was ruling Siam, and the second when a new civilian government took over after
the 1932 Revolution.
The Rattankosin
District has buildings with ornate roofs and intricate eaves commonly
associated with traditional Thai architecture.
It is a symbol of the monarchy system.
Ratchadamnoen Klang Road projects the modern 1940s Modern Style blocks with
no wall engravings and spires, a somewhat reflection of a less hierarchical
society immediately after the abolition of absolute monarchy.
To see and get a sense
of perspective takes up to 2 days of street walking. Not to worry, there are sidewalk bistros,
MacDonald, Thai fine dining restaurants, street hawkers, parks and benches
along the way. This means you can seat in heavenly coolness of a café, fiddle
with your tablet PC one moment, and the next time you are back under the
sun. One good point, Bangkok’s humidity
is less brutal than Singapore.
Photo 4: Ratchatdamneon Klang Road towards the Golden Mount Temple area. This is Bangkok’s Champ Elysees. The area has also seen three major political upheavals from 1973 – 1992. At the bottom you see a khlong which offers Bangkok’s favourite water-boat taxis. Between the khlong and road is Fort Mahakan.
Photo 5: View from Chao
Phraya River. The royal capital city was
located in the Rattanakosin District after its move in 1782 from Thonburi in
the west across the Chao Phraya River to the east. It was the seat of government and the Royal
Family until the abolition of absolute monarchy. The Royal Hotel is rumoured to have many
ghostly tales because of the student unrests in the 1970s.
Photo 6: View towards
Chao Phraya River. The Rattanakosin District
flanked by the Chao Phraya River on one side, the future Kaosan Road
backpackers haven [top right] and Wat Pho [bottom left]. Previously the District was occupied by the
Chinese community who relocated further south to the Yaowarat (Chinatown) area. Notice that the Somdet Phra Pin Khao Bridge
across the Chao Phraya River was not built then. Across the Chao Phraya River from the
Thammasat University (the second oldest university in Thailand) is Thonburi
Railway Station.
That many of the
buildings you see in the above photos are still here is testimony to the
efforts of the Fine Arts Department which regulates the protection of 6,400
historical monuments/buildings. We have
the Ministry of Defense Building, Supreme Court, Royal Hotel, Memorial Bridge
and Fort Mahakan as some examples.
Finally, it is not
inconceivable what Hamilton, Alonso or Button would see when each of them looks
up at the Bangkok skyline. Maybe next
time we talk about where the drivers could have some clean fun?
Photo 7: Bangkok Nights
in and around the proposed F1 GP street circuit. [From left clockwise – Grand Palace,
Democracy Monument, Golden Mount Temple, Rama 7 Bridge and Emerald Buddha
Temple].